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Finding the best support system

Published: Thursday, February 28, 2008

Updated: Monday, April 19, 2010 00:04

Seventy percent of women wear the wrong size bra according to the iVillage.com writer, Eileen Sutton, in her article "Busting Out: Finding the Perfect Bra." We've all seen the unfortunate side effects of poorly fitting bras. Sometimes "spillage" occurs. This happens when the bra cups are too small and fit so tightly in the front it cuts both the girls in half, giving the illusion that the twins have become quadruplets. Other bras create uni-boobs, bouncy boobs, pointy boobs, droopy boobs or allow boobs to rudely point around the room.

Finding the right bra is understandably difficult because, like the women they belong to, all breasts are different. In fact, a lot of women have one breast that is slightly larger than the other. As if that wasn't enough, all bras are different. Sizing changes as the brand changes and bras come in a million different styles, colors, textures and have a plethora of functions from minimizing to emphasizing, from fashion statement to necessity. Also, even a five-pound fluctuation in weight can change your bra size. So how, with all these forces against you, do you find the perfect bra? Well, it's not easy, but the effort you put into buying the right bra will pay off in the end. Before you throw out the old bras and go out and buy a week's worth of new ones, it's important to figure out why the old ones didn't fit. According to Dyna DuMore, of Brasizeinfo.com, if the band rides up your back, the band size is too big. If the bra digs into your back, the band is too small. If there is bulging or spillage out the sides of the cup, you need a bigger band size in a style with more coverage in the front. If, instead of the sides, there is spillage out the top of the cup you should try a larger cup size in the same style. If your problem is with sagging or bouncing, try a style that separates the cups and has an underwire. Also, the bra should have adjustable straps and back. Sagging and bouncing can also just be a sign that your bra is too old and worn out. So, once you've discovered the problems with your current bras, you should be ready to go out and get some new ones! DuMore gives some general advice on buying bras, "Literally, every bra is sized differently. This means for you to get the best fitting bra, you should first take your measurements and then find out how the bra you want runs (true to size, a bit large, a bit tight) before choosing which size to buy," she said.

Sutton gives some advice on how exactly to measure yourself, "With a bra on, measure yourself tightly around the top of the rib cage just beneath the bust. If it's an odd number of inches, add 5 to find your bra [band] size; if it's even, add 4 (so if you measure 29, your bra size is 34). For your cup size, measure around yourself again, but this time place the tape measure loosely over the fullest part of the breast. Subtract the first measurement from the second. A 1-inch difference is an A cup; 2-inch difference = B cup; 3 = C; 4 = D; 5 = DD; and 6 = DDD or E."

Once you have your measurement, decide what function you want your bra to serve and pick the type of bra that was designed for that function. Full Coverage bras are designed for support. When they fit properly, they should cover the entire breast. Underwire bras have metal wires at the base and generally give the most support of all bras. Sports bras are designed to minimize bouncing while the wearer exercises. Racerback bras have a crossover pattern in the back and are a common type of sports bra.

Halter-top bras can increase cleavage and look good with halter-tops. Women with large breasts should avoid halter-top bras because they put too much pressure on the neck.

Backless bras either have only front coverage or have very low backs so they can be worn with tops that have low backs. Strapless bras only have a band, no straps. Strapless bras also come in styles that cover the torso which are more supportive than the traditional strapless bra. Padded bras and push-up bras have extra padding in the cups and can give the illusion of larger breasts or increase cleavage. Padded bras with gel tend to look the most natural.

Demi bras are cut lower than traditional bras so they can be worn with low cut tops. Decollete bras are cut even lower than Demi bras. Light Support bras have no underwire and usually do not give enough support to women with a cup size larger than an A. After you've figured out what size you should be, and what type of bra you want take the time to try the bra on at the store, since sizing varies with brand. Sutton suggests the fabric of the bra should lie flat against your breasts, so if there's any wrinkling you need to go down a band (not a cup) size.

The strap should offer support but shouldn't cut into your shoulders. If they're leaving marks it doesn't necessarily mean they're too tight-it might mean you need a more supportive bra, "Your bra straps are the right length if your bra is level across your back and not too tight when using the middle hook. Your bra, in front, should lie flat against the middle of your chest, and the back strap should rest under the lowest part of your shoulder blade," Sutton says.

Finally, she suggests smooth silky bras because they look the best under all fabrics and that women with large or small breasts shop in specialty lingerie stores or boutiques because they can be personally fitted and have a bigger selection to pick from.

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